Bowling Greens
Introduction The game of bowls has been in evidence for many years, dating back to the fourteenth century. An Act of Parliament in 1541 prohibited 'inferior' people from playing the game of bowls. Since then the game has moved forward tremendously, being enjoyed by all age groups, from every class of person, both male and female. The English Bowling Association was formed in 1903 and by the Crown Green Association in 1907. The Scottish Bowling Association was formed earlier, in 1892, and indeed Scotland is the home of the World Bowls Association. Two bowling greens in the same town would not necessarily require the same maintenance. There are many outside factors including the type of construction and the surrounds, that will greatly influence the maintenance procedures. These notes aim to give guidance and advice of a general nature to the bowling greenkeeper, throughout the year. Pre-Season
If grass growth is taking place be prepared to tip the grass with the mower set at a cutting height of 12-15mm (1/2“ 5/8 inch). Ditches should be cleaned out removing any debris that may have collected over the winter months. The pebbles can be removed and placed on the path to be cleaned by the weather. If they are allowed to dry before returning to the ditch there is less chance of any dirt sticking to them. Pebbles should be rounded and between 20-35 mm diameter. While the ditches are clear of pebbles any soil residue should be cleaned out. It may be necessary to lower the surface to ensure the level meets the requirements of the game. Alternative materials such as rubber crumb may be used but do not consider any material that is hard and difficult to see in case it finds its way onto the green. Sand is not suitable as it sticks to the woods when wet. The maintenance of satisfactory grass banks is time consuming and very tedious therefore many banks have been substituted by synthetic material. This proves to be more than satisfactory for many clubs. In this case many banks will extend into the ditch and provide a suitable surface for the wood to land upon. March-April
The mowing should continue and the height of cut lowered gradually to the finished level for the season. Many greens are cut far too low, assuming they will run quicker. This may be so in the short term, but the long term effect is detrimental to the desired grass species. Most bowling greens are sown with a mixture of Brown top bent (Agrostis tenuis) and Chewings fescue (Festuca rubra). This mixture will see the gradual ingress of Annual meadow grass (Poa annua) when it is mown too low. Annual meadow grass is undesirable because it does not have a deep root and will soon stress out when the conditions are drier in the summer. At this time of the season the main function of the scarifier will be to remove any decaying matter formed over the winter period. The type of blade used should be limited to thatch control tines as any damage to the surface is unlikely to recover before the start of the season. In some cases it may be necessary to apply a moss killer before starting to scarify the green. The scarification should be done in two to three directions with the second and third being at a slight angle to the first. The area may need cleaning after scarification. This can be completed in two ways: by changing to the brush reel in the scarifier; or using a cylinder mower if conditions allow.
Where the ditch surrounds are made of wood these will require cleaning and treating with paint or wood preservative.
At this time of the year, when there is still a risk of cold weather, it is probably best to use an autumn/winter feed to ensure there is no surge of growth. Fertiliser can be applied very uniformly with the SISIS Truspred spreader. Fertiliser application is an essential part of bowling green maintenance since a high percentage of the nutrients are lost in the grass clippings every time the green is mown. With the change in climate there is probably no need to consider irrigation at this time of the year, but if we are fortunate to have a period of dry weather then do not allow the green to dry out. Many greens will now have an automatic irrigation system that will enable the irrigation to be applied in the evening thus reducing the chance of interfering with play on the green. Bowling Season By this time the height of cut of the mower will be reduced to 5mm. (3/16 inch). Mowing should be carried out three or four times per week to present the green at its best. A mower providing at least 150 cuts per metre is desirable to provide a good quality of cut. Many mowers have a brush or comb attached to ensure the grass is standing before it is cut. The green should be edged off regularly so that presentation is enhanced. Mowing should be done from corner to corner on the diagonal. To avoid a nap forming with the grass it is possible to vary the mowing direction slightly at intervals through the season. On the other hand nap formation is more or less eliminated if brushing is always carried out before mowing. Surface aeration should continue at regular intervals through the bowling season. The use of the SISIS Rolospike reel will prick the surface to a depth of about 12mm (1/2 inch). Surface aeration will keep air in the surface of the root zone to allow bacteria etc to break down the thatch accumulation. In some circumstances it is possible to use deeper aeration tines but it requires careful selection of equipment and tine. The SISIS Dart fitted with the needle tine head will aerate the green without creating damage to the surface of the green.
One or two dressings of a spring and summer fertiliser will help maintain a healthy sward. The amount of fertiliser should be regulated to avoid lush periods of growth. Some clubs will find it beneficial to use a controlled release fertiliser which, although more expensive, will regulate the release of the nitrogen. If the grass becomes too soft it will interfere with the speed of the green. Some greenkeepers now prefer the use of liquid fertiliser formulations to eliminate the risk of granules being picked up on the woods. To measure the green speed the following can be done; a jack is placed 30yds (27.4m) from the mat and the time recorded for a biased bowl to reach the 30yds (27.4m). Only woods stopping within 0.15m of the jack are recorded. A figure of 13 seconds would be regarded, satisfactory but fast times are usually only recorded on synthetic surfaces. At the start of the playing season many bowlers may be uncomplimentary about the pace of the greens. A slow green will require the bowler to use much more force to send the wood across the green. Something to bear in mind is that they have probably been playing inside on synthetic surfaces and will need time to readjust to the turf. Remember, thatch is the biggest cause of slow greens and this can only be corrected properly at the end of the season. During the bowling season it is possible to map out the high or low spots on a plan to assist with maintenance at the end of the season. An easy method of mapping undulations out is to stretch taught strings over the rinks and plot the low spots with markers such as nails. Move the string along until an area is plotted out. It can then be measured and then recorded on a plan. Even easier, would be to map the puddles laying on the surface after rain. More sophisticated methods are available. It is possible to purchase a reasonable quality laser level from some of the larger DIY stores at a reasonable price. I have mentioned the suitable grass species already that we hope to find in the green. It would be difficult to find a green that did not include annual meadow grass but a few tips may be helpful.
The play differences of rink and crown bowls create different wear patterns on the greens. Rinks may show wear on the ends but this can be reduced by side shifting the rinks along the green and rotating them on the green. Not forgetting that the members will have their favourite rink! The rinks should be moved regularly, every day if possible, by moving the strings to the left or right, giving three positions for each rink. Frequent movement of the rinks will reduce the problems of bowlers not wanting to play on the end rinks because of excessive wear. On crown greens the wear is uncommon but a fixed point of entry to the green can create problems. Using movable steps can ease wear onto the green. The rinks are 19-21 feet wide, depending upon which rules are being followed, and may be reduced to 14 feet for singles out of competition. The rink lines are usually green string across the length of the green and secured at each end. The string extends up the banks and is fixed with boundary pegs on the bank. Rink numbers will be on plates at each end on the slope of the bank or at the top. Side markers are also placed along side banks at a distance of 27 yds. in the direction of play. Autumn Renovation The autumn renovation should start as soon as possible at the end of the season to ensure that all operations are complete prior to the cold nights. Some clubs just want to carry on later and later into the autumn, indeed some now bowl through the winter on some greens. This type of thinking does not give the greens a chance and creates a long-term deterioration in standards. Having fixed the closure date, plans can be made to obtain any equipment and materials required for the end of season work. Most clubs will not have the full range of equipment required but there are usually several hire companies close by. Materials such as grass seed, fertiliser and top-dressing should be ordered in good time to ensure they are ready when required.
When the surface is clear of any debris the next operation is aeration. There is a large range of tines that can be used, varying in depth and thickness. It is usual to solid tine the green but in some circumstances it may be necessary to use hollow tines. Solid tines can be used throughout the year and will help to increase root density. Slit tines can be used at the end of the season and will help drainage. Hollow tines are used where there is an excessive amount of thatch. Before deciding which type of tine to use it is advisable to take out a profile of the root zone to investigate thatch levels, root density and depth, any root-zone layering or other problems.
Most bowling clubs will use a mixture of Brown top bent (Agrostis tenuis) and Creeping fescue (Festuca rubra commutata). Some will use 100% Brown top. Where Brown top is used on its own it is very difficult to sow with out the use of a carrier such as dry sand. Some local authority bowling greens that are prone to heavy wear and maybe vandalism are looking to the latest cultivars of Perennial ryegrass (Lolium perenne) to combat the difficulties. These cultivars are very fine in leaf and do provide a suitable bowling surface. The down side is that they require mowing once a day. After the fertiliser and seed is applied the next operation will be to apply a good sandy loam top dressing. This will rectify any low spots on the green. There are many propriety makes to choose from to reduce the need for mixing. It will need some 4 tonnes to complete the green, more if hollow tining is used. Suitable machines for spreading the top dressing include the SISIS AutoSpred or the SISIS Truspred for smaller clubs. With experienced ground staff it is possible to spread the top-dressing by hand but it is very time consuming and painstaking. Autumn / Winter If by the late autumn there is obvious signs of areas where the seed has not taken and bare patches still show it is not too late to consider turfing such areas. Only turf that is compatible with the green should be used. Prepare the area by removing the existing turf and ensuring the surface is firm so that the new turf can be placed flush with the surrounding area. Keep a look out for disease problems; it may be necessary to consult a local turf advisor if disease does occur to establish the best method of control. Many diseases occur when the conditions are humid and still. By brushing the green on a regular basis with the SISIS Dragbrush the chance of disease will be reduced. Routine aeration when the weather conditions allow will reduce moisture from the surface. Use equipment fitted with chisel ended slit tines every two weeks at this time of the year. If the conditions are frosty keep the equipment off the green. This will allow air to reach the roots and provide a healthier grass plant. If disease is prevalent consider the use of a suitable fungicide after taking advice from your turf advisor. When applying any pesticide then the guidelines of the Control of Pesticide Regulations must be followed. Only contact fungicides should be used in the autumn/winter period and the systemic fungicides can be used when the grass is actively growing. Surrounds Attention should be given to the surrounding areas of the bowling green. Any planting of flowerbeds or shrub beds should be maintained to enhance the appearance of the area. Ensure that high growth is not casting too much shade onto the green. Thin out any tall shrubs by pruning at the correct time of the year. Keep the area free from litter and debris, provide litterbins and keep them emptied at regular intervals. Many clubs now cater for disabled bowlers so ensure there are adequate access facilities for wheel chairs etc. onto the green. Look after the green and surrounds and they will supply hours of pleasure for bowlers in years to come! No responsibility is accepted by SISIS for the information contained in this article. SISIS machinery is designed, patented and manufactured in UK Copyright SISIS EQUIPMENT (Macclesfield) LTD. SISIS equipment is used at many of the worlds top sporting venues, including St.Andrews, Turnberry, Wimbledon, Ascot, Guards Polo Club, Parc de Prince in Paris, King Fahd Stadium, Saudi Arabia, Pebble Beach in the USA. Some of the most popular machinery recommended by SISIS for bowling green maintenance: Powered aerator:
Other:
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